Food trends, like civilisations, move westwards with the setting sun. And now it’s the turn of J-grub to rise from the east and teach western cuisine a few lessons: Anglo-Japanese food is in vogue in the capital.
On Wardour Street the suggestive Ichibuns — a play on the term ichiban, which translates as “number one” — is serving a unique mixture of American fast food and Japanese cuisine. Masterminded by Robin Leigh, the director of Nobu, Kurt Zdesar, founder of Ping Pong, and Endo Kazutoshi, executive sushi chef of the Zuma group, the menu includes wagyu beef burgers, shiitake mushroom ramen and pop-and-go cocktails. Descend into the diner and get lost in a Tokyo night: the eclectic rock-and-roll interiors are inspired by Fifties and Sixties Japanese subculture, crossed with the quintessential tropes of an American diner.